| Daim tawv nqaij Cov khoom xyaw Science Series| Niacinamide (vitamin B3)

Niacinamide (Lub panacea hauv lub ntiaj teb saib xyuas tawv nqaij)

Niacinamide, tseem hu ua vitamin B3 (VB3), yog cov tshuaj lom neeg lom neeg ntawm niacin thiab pom dav hauv ntau hom tsiaj thiab nroj tsuag. Nws kuj yog ib qho tseem ceeb ua ntej ntawm cofactors NADH (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) thiab NADPH (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate). Ua ke nrog txo NADH thiab NADPH, lawv ua raws li coenzymes nyob rau hauv ntau tshaj 40 biochemical tshua thiab kuj ua raws li antioxidants.

Clinically, nws yog tsuas yog siv los tiv thaiv thiab kho pellagra, stomatitis, glossitis thiab lwm yam kab mob.

lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb tshaj plaws
1. Daim tawv nqaij brightening thiab whitening

Nicotinamide tuaj yeem txo qis- tswj kev thauj ntawm melanosomes los ntawm melanocytes mus rau keratinocytes yam tsis muaj kev cuam tshuam tyrosinase kev ua haujlwm lossis kev loj hlob ntawm tes, yog li cuam tshuam rau daim tawv nqaij pigmentation. Nws tuaj yeem cuam tshuam nrog kev cuam tshuam ntawm keratinocytes thiab melanocytes. Lub cell signaling channels ntawm cov cell txo melanin ntau lawm. Ntawm qhov tod tes, nicotinamide tuaj yeem ua rau ntawm cov khoom melanin uas twb muaj lawm thiab txo nws txoj kev hloov mus rau cov hlwb.

Lwm qhov kev pom yog tias nicotinamide kuj muaj kev ua haujlwm ntawm kev tiv thaiv glycation, uas tuaj yeem ua rau cov xim daj ntawm cov protein tom qab glycation, uas yuav pab tau rau kev txhim kho cov tawv nqaij xim ntawm cov zaub-xim ntsej muag thiab txawm tias "cov poj niam daj daj".
nthuav kev nkag siab

Thaum niacinamide siv los ua cov khoom ua kom tawv nqaij, ntawm qhov concentration ntawm 2% mus rau 5%, nws tau raug pov thawj tias muaj txiaj ntsig zoo hauv kev kho chloasma thiab hyperpigmentation los ntawm ultraviolet rays.

2.Anti-aging, txhim kho cov kab zoo (tiv thaiv dawb radicals)

Niacinamide tuaj yeem txhawb nqa collagen synthesis (ua kom nrawm thiab ntau ntawm collagen synthesis), ua kom tawv nqaij elasticity, thiab txo cov tsos ntawm cov kab zoo thiab wrinkles. Nws kuj muaj antioxidant zog uas neutralize dawb radicals thiab qeeb cov txheej txheem aging ntawm daim tawv nqaij.
nthuav kev nkag siab

Cov kev tshawb fawb tau pom tias kev siv nicotinamide (5% cov ntsiab lus) tuaj yeem txo cov wrinkles, erythema, yellowing thiab me ntsis ntawm daim tawv nqaij laus.

3.Kho daim tawv nqaijbarrier muaj nuj nqi
Niacinamide txoj kev kho ntawm daim tawv nqaij barrier muaj nuj nqi yog feem ntau tshwm sim nyob rau hauv ob yam:

① Txhawb cov synthesis ntawm ceramide hauv daim tawv nqaij;

② Ua kom ceev qhov sib txawv ntawm cov keratin hlwb;
Kev siv tshuaj pleev xim ntawm nicotinamide tuaj yeem nce qib ntawm cov rog dawb thiab ceramides hauv daim tawv nqaij, txhawb nqa microcirculation hauv dermis, thiab tiv thaiv cov tawv nqaij tsis muaj dej.

Nws kuj ua rau kom cov protein synthesis (xws li keratin), nce intracellular NADPH (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate) ntau ntau, thiab ua kom keratinocyte sib txawv.
nthuav kev nkag siab

Lub peev xwm los txhim kho cov tawv nqaij barrier ua haujlwm tau hais los saum toj no txhais tau hais tias niacinamide muaj peev xwm moisturizing. Cov kev tshawb fawb me me qhia tau hais tias cov tshuaj pleev 2% niacinamide muaj txiaj ntsig zoo dua li roj av jelly (petroleum jelly) hauv kev txo cov dej ntawm daim tawv nqaij thiab ua kom muaj dej.

Qhov zoo tshaj plaws kev sib xyaw ntawm cov khoom xyaw
1. Whitening thiab freckle tshem tawm ua ke ua ke: niacinamide +Retinol A
2. Sib sib zog nqus moisturizing ua ke:hyaluronic acid+ ua squalane